Food and wine specialities from land and sea

This land is rich in landscapes that change with every kilometre, and it’s food and wine traditions are equally varied: there’s an abundance of seafood along the Livorno coast, while in the Pisan hinterland vegetable produce and game dominate the table year round, but don’t imagine there are any seafood specialities here even though the sea glistens on just the other side of the hills. But for both coast and countryside, the recipes are always based on the simplicity and authenticity of the Tuscan farmhouse tradition and should always be accompanied by excellent olive oil and wine.

Livorno, seafood and a mix of cultures

Livorno’s genuine and delicious cuisine comes from its fusion of cultures, tradition of hospitality and curiosity, and invention in times of famine. The city’s most quintessential dish is cacciucco, spelt with five Cs. The name probably derives from the Turkish kuzuk meaning ‘small’, a reference to the size of the fish traditionally used in this poor man’s stew consisting of mixed seafood and tomato, served with a slice of garlicky bread. The ways of the sea and common sense of Livorno’s people, for whom any wastage of fish is unthinkable, are ingrained in the recipe. In local restaurants, the catch of the day is always on the menu, accompanied by other traditional recipes such as baccalà alla livornese - fried salt cod dipped in tomato sauce - or triglie (mullet) alla livornese, or  stuffed squid and cuttlefish as well as mussels - also stuffed. For the best fresh seafood dishes, go to Livorno’s Mercato delle Vettovaglie, a stone’s throw from the port.

The 5&5 – Livorno’s street food

Five cents worth of a type of bread known as ‘francesino’ and five cents worth of chickpea pancake: this is the origin of the name 5&5, Livorno’s hunger-beating sandwich. There is only one variation allowed: the addition of aubergines in pesto (with garlic, parsley, oil and vinegar) and it should  always be washed down with a spuma bionda soft drink. Crunchy on the outside, but with a soft heart, the chickpea pancake is also reputed to owe its invention to the sea, from a sack of chickpea flour that fell into salt water during a storm. According to the locals, the best 5&5 is served at the Torteria Da Gagarin, but that of Da Cecco and Da David are also excellent.

The essentials: bread, oil and wine

As in many other areas of Tuscany, extra virgin olive oil is a basic ingredient of the cuisine. In this area, the green gold oil is of exceptional quality thanks to the sun-kissed and breezy terrains where the olives are cultivated. It is the perfect ingredient to enrich the simplest slice of traditional unsalted Tuscan bread. Wine, like oil, is always on the table and has a strong farmhouse tradition refined in the DOC and DOCG certified wines such as  the Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG the Bolgheri DOC and also the Montescudaio Doc.

This is also the realm of superb butchery produce

The Aurelia highway draws an imaginary boundary line between costal cuisine and the inland specialities, where meat, or ‘ciccia’ as the Tuscans call it, reigns supreme. The bistecca alla fiorentina is the rib-eye steak (a high cut of bullock or heifer) cooked on the grill and served rare. It is a dish that typifies the region together with other dishes based on game, particularly wild boar. From starters to main courses, the meat-based menu includes specialities such as liver pâté (for the famous crostini neri), hand-sliced prosciutto crudo, salamis such as finocchiona prepared with fennel seeds, but also cinta senese salami (from a local breed of pig), and more: sausages, roasts, stews, and ragùs, which are the perfect accompaniment to various pasta formats such as pappardelle. Volterra is famous for its tripe, which is celebrated on the first of May every year, when the locals eat it for breakfast in the ancient tradition of the alabaster artisans. To savour these delicacies, a 10-minute drive from the hu Montescudaio village will take you to the renowned Osteria BardoVino: we recommend booking in advance, as it is very popular.

Options for vegetarians too!

Although world-famous for its meat, the local cuisine also offers a wide array of dishes for vegetarians. In fine weather, the garden and table are full of fresh vegetables and juicy fruits, while in autumn chestnuts, truffles and mushrooms are aplenty. The soup season begins with winter, the most famous being ribollita made with black cabbage, beans and stale bread, literally ‘reboiled’ the day after its preparation to deepen the flavours. The tradition of local-made cheeses is just as rich and varied, offering fresh ricottas and the typical Tuscan pecorino to savour at all its various stages of ageing with honey or local jams.

Livorno Ponce, the perfect end to a meal

It is pronounced just as it is spelled – ponce – and although derived from the English ‘punch’, it is taken instead of coffee at the end of a meal in almost all restaurants in Livorno. But the locals will go to the historic Bar Civili where it has been served for over 130 years to have theirs. In true Livorno style, ponce is defined by a blend of cultural influences and flavours that have given this historic port city its unique character. Based on rum and coffee, it is served hot with a teaspoon of sugar and curl of lemon peel called ‘vela’ (sail). Around here, it is definitely the best way finish off your meal.